Do remember, though, that whatever your
size or proportions, forget the size of the suit and concentrate on good fit.
Tall, straight and narrow
Avoid narrow pinstripes, as these will accentuate your narrow body. You can
look like a beanpole in very tailored single-breasted suits.
Go for some texture in the fabric for example, herringbone or twill.
Higher buttoning in the jacket will ensure that you look in proportion. Try the
Italian double-breasted style with shape at the waist.
Avoid the boxy double-breasted jacket because the buttoning tends to be low
and the non-waisted style will accentuate your straight up-and-down body
shape.
Closely woven rather than softer fabrics will make the most of your lean
shape.
Broad, athletic build
Keep your suit fabrics closely woven and crisp to accentuate your sharp build.
Avoid the continental style of jackets with wider shoulders these will give
the illusion of rounded shoulders. Italian double-breasted or single-breasted
classic styles are generally best.
Your lapels should not be too pronounced, as this will widen the shoulders,
making you look out of proportion.
Portly with figure challenges
Avoid double-breasted jackets because the detail of buttons on the midriff
area accentuates the areas you would probably rather diminish. Doublebreasted
will also make you look wider than you are. Opt for single-breasted
designs that will make you look taller and leaner.
Go for vents in the jacket, which will lie better on broad backsides.
You need good crease retention in the fabrics you choose. Wool worsteds are
best.
Chalk stripes can make you appear taller and slimmer.
Small and short
Single-breasted styles are better on you, because double-breasted suits will
often swamp your fine frame.
Pay attention to the length of the jacket it should finish just under the curve
of the backside. Any lower and you will appear shorter.
Avoid turn-ups in your trousers, because these shorten the legs.
Do not go for pronounced lapels you will be in danger of looking comical.
Pinstripes can add height.
Sloping shoulders
Always opt for jackets with padded shoulders which extend one to two inches
off the shoulder.
Avoid the relaxed or continental styles, because the shoulders tend to be
more rounded and softer. |